Kenting with Sasha and John

2010/06/25

Hengchun, Hengchun Aquarium, Kenting, Longluan Lake, Bisha beach, Sail Rock, Kenting National Park, Eluanbi Lighthouse, Jialeshui, Chikung Waterfall

I joined this trip almost the last day, even so Sasha planned it long time ago. I didn't know if I want to go, because I should go to another place (Kinmen) with Honza. However Kinmen crashed and thus I joined him and John. It is a pity Christie didn't go with us in the end :)

I expected Sasha prepared all the things, but suddenly we found out his plan was just swimming for 4 days. What a crazy man! So thanks God I took my guidebook with me. I planned several nice trips around and we swam a lot anyway. Sasha enjoyed the swimming all the last day and I think, he will remember it for a long time :)

We took a bus from Taipei Main Station in 1:00 and because John wanted to go by walk, we arrived to the bus station 5 minutes prior the departure. Hopefully, we passed all the procedure with buying tickets (as always, they didn't speak English, so we have to use our poor Chinese) and go to Kaohsiung.

In 6 am we were already in Kaohsiung. Bus driver kicked us off the bus and we stayed on the road and didn't know where to go. Taxi drivers start to annoy us with their offerings. But in fact, the bus to Kenting was so expensive, that we took it with two Taiwanese girls heading there too. The total prize for 5 people was 1500 NT$, single ticket for bus was 375 and thus taxi was really cheaper.

Hengchun aquarium and Kenting

We were in Hengchun, where Sasha and John had booked room, in 7:30. The family of owners wanted to open in 10:00 and for this reason we had to occupy at least for 2 hours. During that time, we went around all the city center. We saw the city from the observatory on the hilltop, went around the town walls and ate our breakfast in 7-11. Sasha even managed to lose and find his umbrella there :)

We were quite lucky, because we have met a friend of the owners of Surf Shark hotel, where we should stay and she helped us with bus to Kenting and Aquarium :). The sympathetic staff of the hotel arrived a little late, but they were very helpful, friendly and altogether very nice :) Even so Sasha flooded her with his endless questionnaire, but she took it so easily. Just smiled a lot :)

After we placed our luggage to our rooms (Sasha and John had a twin room beside my single, even so they should have some smaller one, however because of other circumstances, they can stay even there, nonetheless the price should be higher for this special room), we went to the Hengchun Aquarium (National Museium of Marine Biology). Sasha wanted to go there by foot, but hopefully a 7-11 staff told him it is a 2 hours trek rather than small walk (as he predicted for 20 minutes :) ) and we took a bus.

It cost about 50 NT$ just to get there and the entrance fee was 250 NT$ (= 160 CZK) for student, 450 NT$ for adult. (Have to say buses in Kenting are quite expensive.) It's quite a big pile of money, so we expected a lot. It was nice aquarium, but I admit, I really expected even a little more. However Sasha and especially John were really amazed, so it was great :)

You can see there almost everything from the sea world, except (of course) big mammals like Orca, Big Blue Whale or even a Sperm Whale. The exhibition is divided into 3 major parts. Waters of Taiwan, Coral World and Oceans of the World. Each part is typical with something else. Taiwan part is like a ZOO, the Choral World was rather a authentic museum with a lot of artificial coral reefs and even a sank ship, which you can attend via underwater tubes. The Oceans of the World was just an exhibition of chosen species, but of course worth to see! You could see there even quite a big fishes and rays (skates).

After that, we caught a bus directly to Kenting just in front of the Aquarium. Lucky for us, we have met some guys from Hong Kong going there too, so they helped us and woke us up on Kenting bus station (because we all fell to sleep as we didn't sleep too much during the night bus to Kaohsiung).
Kenting village is in fact just a one road, which works as a permanent night market. Over the city, there is a majestic main peak of the Kenting National Park. Just across the first rows of buildings is the beach. Hurry up to the water!

The beach is clean and nice. Only some lonely rocks are pointing from the sea on the far east and west side. However where are not the rocks, there is the "private beach". I use "", because legally no-one according to the Taiwan law can own the area of beach (that's is logic, how do you want to make borders when there is the tide and also someone who is just in shallow water is outside your restricted area). However nasty bay-watch will tell you quite ugly way to go to the hell, if you aren't a hotel guest.

In fact I tried to argue. We failed due to our obvious backpacker status. And as the result of lack of the reasonable arguments, bay-watch explained the reason why we can't stay there with words "This is our country, understand? So get outside this beach.". Poor ignorants. I feel satisfied I saw them mad and made them completely red with anger from my argumentation hahaha :D

We ate in Kenting night market. I enjoyed the fried corn with spicy sauce and an ice-cream and Sasha baked squid (octopus) with (later!) ice-cream. John, as he doesn't like major of the Taiwanese cuisine due to his Hindu status, ate just dumplings all the time :) which we had as a second dinner in Hengchun.

On scooter around Baishi channel

In the morning the day after, I had rent a scooter for me and John and Sasha a mountain bike. This solution was the only acceptable, even so it seems to you crazy. I was the only one who had the driving license for motorcycles and John never rode a bike, thus we cannot go by bike all. The price was 400 NT$ for 24 hours (= 260 CZK). (Bike 200 NT$)

We had to find the gas station first, which was quite difficult task, but later on, we succeeded. We rode around Longluan lake, where we watched birds from bird observatory (I saw no birds there :) ) and also just by accident met a museum made from old fiber company plant. It was quite interesting and refreshing. The museum is well kept and big just enough to do not start to annoy :) If you would be interested, just follow the road around the Longluan from south (to Guanshan) and it's on the left side of the road (the museum is not marked in the LP guidebook).
After hour or so we arrived to Baisha beach. One of the most famous and spectacular beaches in Bashi channel (except Kenting). In fact, I appreciated it even more. It was smaller, with better sand and the waves there were smaller, so it was possible to swim more. You can also hire there the umbrella and no-one annoy you it's a private beach :) If you are thirsty, you can buy some drink or coconuts from market sellers near by.

The next steps led us to Nanwan beach and Sail Rock. Nanwan beach was too close and in fact we missed it :) The Sail Rock is a very nice piece of stone pointing from the ocean close to the shore. It's very photogenic area. The first time there, we just passed by and went to another beach more to the south. But that beach was closed, so Sasha went back to Sail Rock and I with John went to the south to the Eluanbi Lighthouse.

So by the accident, we emerged on the southest point of Taiwan, which we visited. In fact, there is nothing, just some statue and a sea. But what else you expected? At least, I was on the southest point :)

We had met Sasha in front of the Sail Rock. Took some pictures and also swam during the dusk on the empty beach (cool, finally no-one annoys you around). It was really nice place and as nobody was there during the night, I enjoyed it quite a lot. However I swam just about 15 minutes. The shore is full of quite sharp, annoying stones, which start to be increasingly irritating during the tide.

Back in Hengchun we attended the same dumpling store. OH, the dumplings there were so good!

With John around Kenting in one day

Sasha wanted to go to swim for all the day, so we (me and John) took a scooter and traveled around Kenting. We enjoyed it really a lot. And Sasha returned with sunburns :(

We headed to the Kenting National Park. Even so we didn't find it for the first time, in 11 am we were already there, paid the 75 NT$ (= 45 CZK) entrance fee and went inside. There were several different routes. Some were through botanical gardens, other to the major peak views and the last one through caves and narrow passes. We combined it together, so we saw the major part and the most interesting parts of all of them.

Especially worthy is the trip to the Watch Tower (to see the Kenting National Park peaks) and the passes. Both things can be done within 2 hours. We spent there about 2 and half and managed really almost everything, even so the weather was really hot and horrible for trotting, I can recommend this place!

The next stop was (again) the Sail Rock. We ate in 7-11 and I took several pictures of this marvelous rock pointing out of the sea. It is really interesting view. Unfortunately the umbrellas are present everywhere as the beach along is really crowded (maybe the most crowded altogether in Kenting).

Going more to the south, around the Eluanbi Lighthouse, we passed the southest part of Taiwan and turned to the north, along the east Coral coast. The view there is really awesome. I can say, I enjoyed that the most of all the day and we even stopped there by accident as I saw a lot of people on the cliffs :) We took some nice photos (the funny mountain goat in front of the military radar :D )

About half an hour later we arrived to the Jialeshui, where you can see some limestone formations in shapes of animals along the coast. The minibus for 75 NT$ (= 45 CZK) will take you there and back and explain you everything (in Chinese, of course). But in fact, I didn't see the animal shapes there at all :( it was the least interesting part of that day trip I think.
The next hour or so had been searching for the Chikung Waterfall. We arrived after official closing and thus we didn't pay the fee, which is 30 NT$ (= 18 CZK) for parking the scooter. Later on we found out that the waterfall is really one hour hike for good shoes and weather and because of the rain and mainly due to the John's slippers, we turned back.

After that we went back to our Surf Shark Hostel. We made a stop in Chuhuo Park, where we saw a natural fires kept by gases from the underground. That was interesting fact, but nothing so cool to make a stop here if you want to plan it and have tight program. Also LP don't say a word about that, reasonably.

In the evening, we tried to find the Sichongshi Historical Battlefield, but we failed as it was too late and during the dark there is nothing to see. During the way back a strong rain caught us, thus we went to Hengchun for one hour. We ended the day buying fried rice with Sasha, who returned from the beach in 21 (and we already thought about calling police!).

2010/06/25 - Kenting [46 pictures]

Kenting National Park [official website]
National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium [Hengchun, official website]

Kenting National Park
Hengchun

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